Secession

Vienna's Secession continues to carry legacy of expressing and supporting artistic freedom

On our first afternoon in Vienna, Steph and I walked from lunch at the Naschmarkt down the street to explore. Upon spotting Secession, I insisted on stopping in immediately before going further. 

I had researched and presented on Secession two years ago for a literature and history course I was taking at Salve Regina University while I was working at the Pell Center. The only specific details I could recall from memory were 

• the name of the building's architect, Josef Maria Olbrich 
• the building served as a center for artistic expression in Vienna
• the building houses Gustav Klimt's Beethoven Frieze

Secession's facade is impressive in pictures, but I didn't realize how large the building was until we saw it in person. I couldn't get a great picture of the golden dome on the roof without having to cross the street—even then, the pictures still failed to capture all of the unique architectural elements in one image. 

Klimt's frieze, located in the lower-level of Secession, is inspired by Richard Wagner's interpretation of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony—each panel of the frieze represents the mankind's journey to find happiness. 

The brilliant, metallic gold present in the frieze lends a magical quality to the whole experience of being in the room and making sense of the piece.

Academic pictures of the frieze do not do it justice—it's such a moving artwork to see in person and there's no need to be an artist to see the layers of meticulous technique Klimt used to imbue as much life into the frieze as possible.

In addition to the Beethoven Frieze, museum visitors can learn the history of Secession and the artistic community that initiated it. Ver Sacrum, the magazine of Secession from 1898-1903, featured jugendstil art and literature from all over Europe.

Steph and I came back to Secession the following evening for the exhibition opening of Echo of a Mirror Fragment by Viennese artist and resident Svenja Deininger. 

Deininger's artwork was inspired by the architecture of the Secession, which ranges from delicate, floral elements visible on the building facade to minimal, clean lines that are present throughout the structure:

[...] the new paintings echo this contrast by juxtaposing straight lines reminiscent of architectural blue-prints with more organic elements: rounded shapes, wavy lines and curves, in which, despite their fragmentary character, there is even a faint suggestion of figurative representation.

What makes Secession special is the intimacy of the space and its progressive spirit that continues to thrive through its preservation and encouraged innovation by the artists showcased there. I would be happy to come back again to see what other exhibitions will bring to support Secession's mission.

How to Spend 72 Hours in Vienna

An intellectual visit to Austria's capital 

I spoke to a few friends who have visited Vienna before to get an idea of what to expect—they all unanimously said that it was a beautiful city, but there wasn't much to do beyond a few days.

My expectations were lowered, only to discover that Vienna has so much to offer the curious visitor. The Austro-Hungarian Empire may be long gone, but traces of Vienna's historical opulence survive in the city's urban architecture and artistic circles.

Steph and I were ambitious in our sightseeing while we were in Vienna—we covered a lot of ground during the three days and two nights we stayed despite the cold and the snow.

Getting There

I took the CAT train from the airport and it was very easy to figure out. It arrives every half an hour and takes 16 minutes to reach the city center via Landstrasse. I bought a 72-hour Vienna pass for all public transportation so that I didn't have to worry about constantly buying tickets throughout my stay. With that being said, we ended up walking to most places and probably could have gotten away with the 48-hour pass instead.

Where to Stay

We booked our stay at Wombats City Hostel by the Naschmarkt. We booked our room on the top floor that offered an amazing view of the Naschmarkt and the main street by the hostel, Linke Wienzeile. Two buildings by city architect Otto Wagner—The Majolikahaus at 40 Linke Wienzeile and 38 Linke Wienzeile, which stands out with gold accents—are prime examples of art nouveau or jugendstil.

Sightseeing Checklist

Many of the attractions in Vienna suit a variety of different people. We didn't make it a number of popular attractions recommended by —Belvedere Palace, Schonbrunn Palace, Prater, etc.—but we felt accomplished in taking our time and enjoying what we did visit.

This just means we need to come back to Vienna in the summer to check out the palace gardens and outdoor parks.

Naschmarkt

Secession

Kunsthistorisches Museum

Hofburg, Sisi Museum, Kaiserappartements

Stephansdom

Freud Museum

Votivkirche

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner 

Similar to how writers and artists would congregate at cafes in Paris, cafes also have a historical significance and cultural relevance in Viennese culture. The cafe is a place to read the newspaper and drink your morning coffee or enjoy a midday beer with schnitzel and linger until the early evening. Regardless of how old-fashioned or modern a cafe is, the most important thing is that you experience what it feels like to take your time and enjoy the moment.

Cafe Sperl

Cafe Dreschler

Zwllingsgwolb

Planning for a Week in Vienna & Paris

Kicking off 2017 with a European adventure

The last time I went was in January 2014 when I studied in Paris, France before my final semester at Salve Regina University. I had every intention of planning a trip in 2016, but work obligations and job searching postponed transatlantic travel plans.

The past few years have been spent whetting my wanderlust by trying new restaurants, reading novels and catching the occasional flight. It is always a comfort finding the Parisian connection

This year, I'll be heading overseas for six days to spend time in Vienna, Austria with Steph and Paris with Baptiste!

I checked out several books from the library* and will continue to pore over every travel blog for different things to do and places to see in each city:

Frommer's Easy Guide to Paris 2017
Fodor's Travel Vienna & the Best of Austria with Salzburg & Skiing in the Alps
DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Vienna 
DK Eyewitness Travel Vienna
The Authentic Bistros of Paris by Francois Thomazeau and Sylvain Ageorges
Saint-Germain-des-Pres Paris's Rebel Quarter by John Baxter

*As resourceful and infinite as the Internet may be, flipping through guide books can be quicker and more efficient to gather quick and accurate information

Although the magic of travel has a way of presenting spontaneous moments and (mostly) pleasant surprises, planning a short bucket list in advance helps shape and maximize the limited time visiting.

The fact that this trip is going to happen in a few weeks still surprises me, but I'm ready for days filled with espressos, champagne, gilded art, Austrian countryside and PARIS. Over the next few weeks, my attention will be focused on prioritizing the bucket list and preparing an easy capsule wardrobe...