Secession

Vienna's Secession continues to carry legacy of expressing and supporting artistic freedom

On our first afternoon in Vienna, Steph and I walked from lunch at the Naschmarkt down the street to explore. Upon spotting Secession, I insisted on stopping in immediately before going further. 

I had researched and presented on Secession two years ago for a literature and history course I was taking at Salve Regina University while I was working at the Pell Center. The only specific details I could recall from memory were 

• the name of the building's architect, Josef Maria Olbrich 
• the building served as a center for artistic expression in Vienna
• the building houses Gustav Klimt's Beethoven Frieze

Secession's facade is impressive in pictures, but I didn't realize how large the building was until we saw it in person. I couldn't get a great picture of the golden dome on the roof without having to cross the street—even then, the pictures still failed to capture all of the unique architectural elements in one image. 

Klimt's frieze, located in the lower-level of Secession, is inspired by Richard Wagner's interpretation of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony—each panel of the frieze represents the mankind's journey to find happiness. 

The brilliant, metallic gold present in the frieze lends a magical quality to the whole experience of being in the room and making sense of the piece.

Academic pictures of the frieze do not do it justice—it's such a moving artwork to see in person and there's no need to be an artist to see the layers of meticulous technique Klimt used to imbue as much life into the frieze as possible.

In addition to the Beethoven Frieze, museum visitors can learn the history of Secession and the artistic community that initiated it. Ver Sacrum, the magazine of Secession from 1898-1903, featured jugendstil art and literature from all over Europe.

Steph and I came back to Secession the following evening for the exhibition opening of Echo of a Mirror Fragment by Viennese artist and resident Svenja Deininger. 

Deininger's artwork was inspired by the architecture of the Secession, which ranges from delicate, floral elements visible on the building facade to minimal, clean lines that are present throughout the structure:

[...] the new paintings echo this contrast by juxtaposing straight lines reminiscent of architectural blue-prints with more organic elements: rounded shapes, wavy lines and curves, in which, despite their fragmentary character, there is even a faint suggestion of figurative representation.

What makes Secession special is the intimacy of the space and its progressive spirit that continues to thrive through its preservation and encouraged innovation by the artists showcased there. I would be happy to come back again to see what other exhibitions will bring to support Secession's mission.

What to Pack for a Winter Week in Europe

It may be crazy, but for my six-day trip to Vienna and Paris, I decided to stick to carry-on luggage.

I kept my wardrobe simple and made sure to pack essentials that would be light and useful for the trip. I'm not even bothering to bring my laptop, which is just as well, because it's better to pay attention to focus on where to go and what to do instead of focusing on finding a WiFi connection at the hostel.

The Packing List

Clothing 

1 cardigan sweater
2 pullover sweaters
2 flannel shirts
2 pairs of jeans
1 black dress
2 sweater dresses
2 black cotton long-sleeve shirts

Accessories

1 pair of black boots
1 black clutch w/ built-in iPhone charger
1 reusable tote
Makeup
Toiletries (liquids repackaged in small travel bottles)

Miscellaneous

2 two-prong adapters
1 three-prong adapter
1 photocopy of passport
KIND bar snacks

Worst case scenario, my return flight back to the States allows me to have two checked bags and a carry-on, so I could buy a suitcase in Paris to bring back whatever I end up buying...

Planning for a Week in Vienna & Paris

Kicking off 2017 with a European adventure

The last time I went was in January 2014 when I studied in Paris, France before my final semester at Salve Regina University. I had every intention of planning a trip in 2016, but work obligations and job searching postponed transatlantic travel plans.

The past few years have been spent whetting my wanderlust by trying new restaurants, reading novels and catching the occasional flight. It is always a comfort finding the Parisian connection

This year, I'll be heading overseas for six days to spend time in Vienna, Austria with Steph and Paris with Baptiste!

I checked out several books from the library* and will continue to pore over every travel blog for different things to do and places to see in each city:

Frommer's Easy Guide to Paris 2017
Fodor's Travel Vienna & the Best of Austria with Salzburg & Skiing in the Alps
DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Vienna 
DK Eyewitness Travel Vienna
The Authentic Bistros of Paris by Francois Thomazeau and Sylvain Ageorges
Saint-Germain-des-Pres Paris's Rebel Quarter by John Baxter

*As resourceful and infinite as the Internet may be, flipping through guide books can be quicker and more efficient to gather quick and accurate information

Although the magic of travel has a way of presenting spontaneous moments and (mostly) pleasant surprises, planning a short bucket list in advance helps shape and maximize the limited time visiting.

The fact that this trip is going to happen in a few weeks still surprises me, but I'm ready for days filled with espressos, champagne, gilded art, Austrian countryside and PARIS. Over the next few weeks, my attention will be focused on prioritizing the bucket list and preparing an easy capsule wardrobe...

A Gilded Weekend in Newport

I pulled out all of the stops for Salve Regina University's 40th Annual Governor's Ball

Staying in style

Since I have never needed to stay at a hotel in Newport before, I wanted to pick the perfect place.

Earlier this fall, Jess Kirby of Prosecco & Plaid wrote a blog post on her trip to Camden, Maine and she mentioned how she stayed at the Whitehall Inn. I remembered that she had tagged Lark Hotels on one of her Instagram photos from the trip. A few link clicks later, I found out that the hotel group has properties in New England and California, including Gilded in Newport.

A stylish boutique hotel style steps away from Bellevue Avenue fit exactly what I had in mind—it didn't take me long to book my hotel room.

The room I stayed in was located on the first floor by the front desk. I was concerned that I might hear everything and everyone, but it was great—I loved how the smell of freshly baked pastries woke me up in the morning.

Quick Change

I decided to buy different shoes and accessories to go with my dress because I was afraid of being underdressed. I went back to Wish Consignment and bought heels, earrings and a necklace, all of which fortuitously happen to be J. Crew.

Do it up

I ran to Apothecary Newport for a much-needed brow design before making my way to JF3 Salon for my updo. The jewelry I bought at Wish made me second-guess myself about whether I should 1) wear both the necklace and the earrings and 2) style my hair all the way up or half up, half down...

So this is the end result.

Party time

The evening kicked off with a special reception for alumni, parents and friends in McAuley Hall. Everyone enjoyed drinks and hors d'oeuvres sponsored by local restaurants and vendors before Ochre Court opened for the ball.  When we arrived, I didn't realize that alumni were seated on the second floor of Ochre Court overlooking the Great Hall—it was a glamorous perch for sipping champagne and people watching.

I'm slightly surprised that I didn't take any photos throughout the night, but I'm happier to have spent a distraction-free evening chatting with friends and alumni. Governor's Ball is now my new holiday tradition that I hope to share with everyone who wants to spend a wonderful winter weekend in Newport.

Until then...

A New Englander's Guide to Madison, Wisconsin

When I came to visit Madison, I was expecting to only be landlocked in a sea of corn fields.

Although chronic wanderlust has become an essential part of my life, revisiting the midwest didn't exactly earn a rank on the personal travel bucket list—my experience with the region is limited to the brief period when my family moved from Rhode Island to Kentucky for a year and a half.

Fast forward to 2016 and a flight is booked to visit a friend living in Madison, Wisconsin for Columbus Day weekend.

I am happy to report that Wisconsin is more than farmlands and cheese.

We explored downtown, took a winery tour a few towns over and dined at a number of cool restaurants.... I left the city impressed with the genuine, gentle demeanor of the people and the culture. Things are definitely happening—or in the process of happening—in Madison.

When it comes to doing travel write-ups, I have typically written about each place or activity in a separate blog post, but we did so much that everything is going to live in one happy place.

Here we go.

Coffee & Tea

I read about Bradbury's (pictured) in an article by Bon Appetit and loved the laid-back, bohemian vibe. They are best known for their coffee, but they also serve delicious crepes.

Ancora on King Street is another option downtown if you're by the capitol building and need a cafe with WiFi. It's worth mentioning that anyone who claims to be an eco-conscious caffeine addict will be happy to learn that Ancora's coffee is fair trade and organic.

Sencha Tea Bar pleases tea lovers looking for a hot pot of tea after shopping along State Street. There's an extensive list of teas to choose from, so be sure to look through carefully and choose something different. Can't do tea time? You can also buy their tea online.

Helbachs Coffee House, which is located outside of downtown, was probably my favorite coffee shop because of the Euro-inspired decor and comfortable seating—the smooth flavor of the dirty chai is worth sipping.

You know you're in the midwest when The New York Times seal of approval is noted last...

Lunch, Drinks & Dinner

Madison has an array of cuisine choices, so it would do your visit an injustice to only stick with beer, burgers and cheese curds.

With that being said, if you want to experience a Madison classic, head to Dotty Dumpling's Dowry (pictured) for their award-winning burgers. Start off your meal with a cold beer and the Sample Basket, which includes a trove of deep-fried treasures—french fries, cheese curds, deep-fried mushrooms, onion rings and mac and cheese wedges. I ordered the Basil Mozzarella burger, but the Melting Pot is their best-seller. 

Eating at Dotty Dumpling's Dowry is worth it, even if you're a devout worshipper of green kombucha, zucchini pasta and whole grain bread—let alone any bread, really. Being around the happy atmosphere and helpful staff are reminders to New Englanders that smiling and common courtesy are always appreciated.

If you love more sophisticated atmospheres with a contemporary feel—seductive, dim lighting and all—put Merchant, Cask & Ale, Lucille's and Brocach on your food and drink itinerary. I didn't have time to go to Graze, but it is the restaurant more commonly recommended among travel blogs and magazines. 

Merchant is made for the farm-to-table lovers and wine aficionados. Enjoy a romantic evening for two seated at a wooden high-tops with artisan finishes, savoring a small basket of fried local cheese curds, braised lamb, moules frites and your favorite cocktails (pictured).

Cask & Ale, a new bar on State Street, is a homey den for whiskey lovers—they have over 200 different types of whiskey, not to mention a mean cocktail menu. Ask for the John Kerouac and see where the night takes you with the lively bar scene.

Brocach has been renovated to reflect the image of an updated Irish pub with sleek, modern details—order their Irish coffee as the perfect nightcap or second-wind. 

If you want the ultimate atmosphere while you're bar hopping, find Lucille and stake a spot with your friends in the basement vault-turned-lounge. The best part? There's no cell service, so you have to keep up your conversations.*

*Don't worry, you will survive if you can't upload to Snapchat or Instagram for a few hours—that's why you can take videos and pictures, save them to your Camera Roll and upload them in the Uber back to your hotel. 

Another pleasant surprise about Madison's food scene is the presence of ramen noodle bars (see Boru Noodle Bar in Newport, RI and Mecha Noodle Bar in South Norwalk, CT). 

Ramen Kid, another recent downtown addition, satisfies the need for a quick, no-frills hot lunch. I ordered a cup of green tea and the appetizer and ramen combination—fried gyoza and spicy tonkotsu ramen—and fell into a complacent food coma.

Umami Ramen & Dumpling Bar has a next-level atmosphere compared to ramen noodle bars that I've encountered so far—Madison's first restaurant to offer authentic Japanese ramen is in a completely renovated 1880's historic home. They offer a special brunch ramen (pictured) which has a lighter broth than the typical ramen better suited for dinner.  

If you can't make it to the restaurant, you can visit Umami's food truck at the Capitol Farmer's Market on Saturdays. 

Bring your A-game to the Capitol Square Farmer's Market

Weekend To-Do's

Walk through the Capitol Square Farmer's Market. The scale of this farmer's market is something you have to see for yourself—it's an infinite square of local, organic produce, flowers and cheese that wraps around the entire block surrounding the capitol building.

After the typical Wisconsin souvenir shops, the shopping selection in downtown is eclectic, if not non-existent—there is an Urban Outfitters downtown, but Hilldale is where you'll find Anthropologie or Free People.  The two local shops I loved were Fromagination, the perfect place to pick up artisan cheese and put together gift baskets, and Earthbound Trading Co., a boho outpost with eco-friendly apparel, funky jewelry and alternative gifts.

Explore the University of Wisconsin-Madison's campus—time your visit so that after you tour the Chazen Museum of Art, you can walk a few blocks over to see the sunset on the Union terrace overlooking Lake Mendota. Walk the entire terrace to find all of the colored chairs that characterize Madtown.

Be sure to drive outside of Madison to check out the Wollersheim Winery & Distillery in Prairie du Sac. The history behind the winery is absolutely fascinating—the winery's historic wine cellar (pictured) has been on the property since the 1840s when it was built by the original founder, Agoston Haraszthy, before he eventually left for the California gold rush. Haraszthy did not return to his Wisconsin vineyard, but he would continue his passion for wine in California and left his incredible legacy as "the father of viticulture."

The winery changed hands between several families and generations before it was purchased by Robert and JoAnn Wollersheim in the 1970s, the family responsible for reviving the winery to what it has become today. Wollersheim Winery & Distillery is now owned and operated by the second generation of the Wollersheim family—Robert and JoAnn's eldest daughter, Julia Wollersheim, and her husband Philippe Coquard of Beaujolais, France.

A tour of the winery highlights parts of the estate—the restored historic wine cellar, the tank room, a section of the basement cellar, etc.—and ends with complimentary flight tasting with your tour group.

If you want to try additional flights or wines, you will have the option to purchase tokens after the complimentary flight ends. My favorites were their best-selling Prairie Fume, a semi-dry white wine with citrus and tropical fruit highlights, and the ice wine.

After your tour and tasting at Wollersheim, grab a post-wine tasting meal at the Blue Spoon Cafe—it's a five minute drive from the winery, located right in the heart of Prairie du Sac's quaint downtown.

The Ocean House & Watch Hill Inn

Life is a beach

I've never spent time in Watch Hill—this may have to do with the fact that I grew up in Narragansett and attended university in Newport, two places in Rhode Island that are sought out destinations themselves. 

I stayed one night with family at the waterfront condo my cousin had rented at Watch Hill Inn, then we went to the Ocean House the following afternoon.

No matter how long or short your stay is, it's easy to understand Watch Hill's elegant allure—it can be found in quiet mornings walking by the harbor, relaxing afternoons basking on the beach and impregnable moments of solitude sipping a glass of chardonnay on the veranda, waiting for sun down.

Watch Hill Inn and the Ocean House are part of Ocean House Management, which also includes Weekapaug Inn in Weekapaug, Rhode Island and Spicer Mansion in Mystic, Connecticut. For guests staying at the Watch Hill Inn, they also have access to use amenities up the street at the Ocean House, including the private beach, the bocce court and the spa. 

If you want to keep your afternoon simple, order light lunch fare before hitting the beach and grab a cone of gelato Below Deck to cool off afterwards.

Making Monte Carlo by Mark Braude

I am fascinated by cities, particularly ones with a rich history of trade and commerce.

Initially, it sounds like a very shallow world interest, but there is something to be said for examining cities.

Although these destinations are typically tourist meccas, they are associated with tangled complexities of elitist glamour and poverty; pretentious airs and meek acceptance; and unreal manufactured wonders and brutal hurts.

Some people are fascinated with developing countries, but I particularly enjoy learning about established metropolitan areas, because of how the population's psyche shapes the socio-economic structure.

Nations who experienced renaissance periods are especially interesting—not so much because of the aesthetic of the art, but because what particular socio-economic factors within the environment helped spur creative movements.

In Monte Carlo, it was not art that drove its prosperity—it was gambling.

As neighboring countries grappled with the moral implications of gambling, Monaco saw an opportunity to become a popular tourist destination. Cultivating Monte Carlo's image was not without difficulty...

Braude presents Monte Carlo's narrative in a lively manner that suits the city's daring spirit. I can't really provide any background without giving away the novel, so you'll just have to experience it for yourself.

All you need to know is that this is an academic read I can absolutely get behind. Check out the book here.

How to Spend 72 Hours in California | Part 4

Once Steph and I left the foggy San Francisco Bay area, the California sunshine followed us to Napa, the final leg of our weekend trip.

We took a few back roads away from the bumper-to-bumper traffic to enjoy the scenery, since everyone else in the state of California decided to head to Napa...

I chose to go to Domaine Chandon in Yountsville—Moet & Chandon's California sister—for our only wine tasting. As much as I wanted to check out other vineyards, we had to spend our time (and money) wisely. Walking into Domaine Chandon's Tasting Room perfectly fit our schedule.

Enjoying our Prestige Wine Tasting while leisurely strolling around the beautiful terrace couldn't have been further from a hardship...

We grabbed lunch at R+D Kitchen down the road. Steph and I didn't order a glass of bubbly at Domaine Chandon, but we made up for it by ordering the brut at the outdoor bar. I loved my spinach and goat cheese omelette. 

It also happened that it was National Iced Cream Day, so I asked the bartender where I could fulfill my craving. She told me that the restaurant owned Kelly's Filling Station and Wine Shop next door and they served a good vanilla iced cream.

What the bartender refrained from sharing was that this vanilla soft-serve was also organic and locally made...

California has shown me that it really is possible to get everything you want.

It's not all about the destination—the journey is just as important.

As hokey and cliche as it sounds, every drive Steph and I took on this trip was equally as exciting as the places we visited.

Whether it was pulling off to the side of Highway 1to decide if a wave was a whale or a rock, or talking about our true life goals, we made every moment worthy of memory.

One of the things I will always remember about Steph are the random, short weekend trips we took in college—I'm happy to add this 72-hour-MontereyBigSurSanFranciscoNapaValley extravaganza to the list of memories post-undergrad.